/ 

TT 590 
.T5 
Copy 1 




;oneernmg the 

Ifpgent JVfeeessity for. 

and the 

Yast j^dvantages of, 

the 



THOMSON 



QuHmg JVlefhod, 






{^m^e^m/n^i ^ime rJJeu^, 




R. TM0A\50N, 

245 Stanley Road, 

Liverpool. 






(Q)CUiiit.i7Sl 



TTsso 

Cl)e necessitp for, ana tDe aauantages of» 



the: 



Thomson Cutting Method. 



Sooner or later, every successful Master Tailor finds himself 
facing the horns of a dilemma. Either he must abandon to another, 
the cutting* bench at which his success has been won, or he must give 
up any attempt to personally supervise the business side of things. 
Both horns are rich in the elements of disaster. 

If only he could multiply himself ! 

Is that impossible ? 

Consider his work. 

For ordinary garments at least, the vast majority of cutters use 
block patterns. So soon as a man has passed the novice stage, he 
feels safer in doing so. The norm he knows so well lies before him, 
the figure to which he has to accommodate it, is present in the measures 
and description on his board. He knows exactly what deviations 
are necessary at the all-important ^^^points " to attain success. 

He proceeds. First he lays his block on the cloth, sketches 
round it, and puts the pattern on one side. Now he effects the 
alterations to the ^ points ' on whose reciprocal relations the fit of the 
garment depends. The marking of these takes a very few minutes. 
Connecting them up in accord with the contour of the block sketch 
takes a little longer, and the mechanical scissors-work takes longer 
still. He labours through all the stages and performs the cutting of 
a coat and vest in how long ? Half-an-hour ? Not less. 

Now of that half-hour, only three minutes has been spent on 
work to which his skill is essential. The shifting of the ^ points ' was 
his work. Long years of painful experience were necessary before 
he could perform that with the success he does. And he employs 
that hardly won talent for a tenth of his working time ! A child 
could ^' block out," a trimmer can ^May," a labourer could 
^^ chop out." 



^7^ 



But the subdivision of the cutting process has not, so far, been 
attended with much profit to either the tailor or his work. Many of 
us have tried our assistants at * blocking out,' going to their bench 
for the marking up and leaving them to * chop out.' Most of us 
have come to the conclusion that it is not worth while. Going from 
one bench to another is distracting and wastes time ; finding on the 
latter, insufficient room for say, a necessary extension of the Stomach 
point, is distressing — and usual ; the inevitable ruckling up of the long 
length of cloth bearing all the parts chalked and uncut is fraught with 
trouble. No, relief does not lie that way. 

Yet the need for relief is urgent. The claims of shop, books 
(alas, so much behind in the busy time ! ), and supervision of em- 
ployees cannot prudently be ignored. Assistant cutters are 
dangerous experiments, and costly. Is there no way out ? 

The writer is a Master Tailor. He has found a remedy, has tried 
it, experienced its success, and knows well and gratefully the immense 
relief it has brought to him. 

I DO MY DAY'S CUTTING NOW IN AN HOUR ! 
AND EVEN GREATER SUCCESS ATTENDS IT THAN 
DID BEFORE ! 

How ? 

I treat my block patterns as maps. On one side of them I have 
clearly marked and named, the vital ^ points ' whose ultimate 
relations make or mar the job. On the same side, I have a large 
cross indicating the run of the 'Mongitude " and ^Matitude " (see 
illustration of jacket and vest herein). I direct the movement of the 
points to some extent on the patterns themselves, but the determining 
movements are conveyed on" Forms or Charts such as B 2 and C2 
enclosed herewith. B2 shows the system in its quickest and most 
valuable form. The points are set down in the order in which they 
arc customarily dealt with, and I direct their movement in terms of 
longitude and latitude] for instance, if opposite to "Gorge," I 
write " ^ 5., 4 W.," the operator will go down in the ^ S ' direction 
^ an inch from the original or block pattern position of the Gorge 
point and out ^ of an inch in the 'W ' direction. There he will 
find and mark the location I desire. 



rtiz-TuoMSQH curriNo nethoo". copimanr. m richts /^eservcd. 










The Unprinted Matter hereon is the Property of 

Mr. Cloth No. Ordered 

•JACK^EX. Vent; Pkts. out ; 

Seams; Cuff; Type of Back 

Nat. Waist ; Length ; i Back 

YESX. 
TROUSERS Pkts 

Seat ; Knee ; Bottoms 



19 Try on Finish 

Buttons : Fronts ; Roll ; Waist ; Stitched 

; Type of Shoulder ; Falls on the by ; Neck 

To Elbow ; To Wrist ; | Chest ; Breast ; Waist 

Fronts; Pkts out; Pkts. in; Ch. hole and up; To opening ; Length 

S. Seams Bottoms ; S. Seam ; Leg ; Waist 



Chart C2 For use only by I 

(Copyright), fo-" U-S-a. .9.3- 



;s of the " THOMSON CUTTING METHOD." Protected under the Patents Acts, 2140S/13., 23871/13. Patt. apphed 
to be imitated, sold or used except by Licence from ROBERT THOMSON, 245 Stanley Road, Liverpool, England. 



Black Ink Side. DEVIATIONS REQUIRED FROM BLOCK Collar Stand 

Red Ink Side. Sketch the Block outline faintly in BROWN. Produce the LEFT side in BLUE, the RIGHT in WHITE. 




The Un printed Matter hereon is the Property of 



Mr. 




Cloth No. Ordered 


19 Try on Finish 




Vent ; Pkts. out ; 


Buttons ; Fronts 


Roll; Waist: Stitched ; 


Seams ; 


CufF; Type of Back 


; Type of Shoulder 


; FaUs on the by ; Neck ; 


Nat, Waist 


; Length ; i Back 


; To Elbow ; To Wrist 


; i Chest ; Breast ; Waist ; 




VEST. Fronts 


; Pkts out : Pkts. in ; Ch. hole 


and up ; To opening ; Length ; 


xrouse:rs Pkts. 


; S. Seams B.; 


ttoms ; S. Seam ; Leg ; Waist ; 


Seat : Kne 


e ; Bottoms 






Form B2 

(Copyright). 


For use only by Licensees of the " 
Not to be imitated, sold 


THOMSON CUTTING METHOD." Protected under the Patents Act. Patt. applied for U.S..4. 1913. 
or used except by Licence from ROBERT THOMSON, 245 Stanley Road, Liverpool, England. 



1> 

+ 



DEVIATIONS REQUIRED FROH BLOCK 



Collar Stand 



Sketch the Block outline faintly in BROWN. Produce the LEFT side in BLUE, the RIQHT in WHITE. 

Where "O" is written, make no deviation. Where "_" is written, disregard this point and copy the 

contour of the block curves from the last, and to the next point indicated. 



BACK. 
To Back Pitch 

„ Nat. Waist 

„ Bottom 
Nape 
Gorg-e 
Shoulder 
Blade 

Side Waist 
Hip 

S Seam Bottom 
Back Waist 
Seat 
B. Seam Bottom 

FORE PART. 
To Break 
,, Bottom 
Gorg-e 
Shoulder 
Blade 
Side Waist 
Breast 
Stomach 
Front Bottom 



SIDE, 



COAT. 



FORE PART. 


FORE PART 


Roll to 


S. Seam Bottom 


Lapel Cut 


Breast 


Fish 


Stomach 


Gorg-e 


Front Bottom 


Lapel Top 





Shoulder 


SLEEVE. 


Front of Scye 


To Elbow 


Scye Level 


„ Wrist 


Forearm Pitch 


Cuff Width 


Blade 


Forearm 


Side Waist 


Hindarm 


Hip 


Shoulder 



ALTER 



BACK. 
To Back Pitch 
Gorge 
Shoulder 



SLEEVi 
To Wrist 
Forearm 
Hindarm 
Shoulder 



VEST. 



BACK. 
To Nat. Waist 
Nape 
Gorge 
Shoulder 
Blade 
Side Waist 
Back Waist 



FRO/v\ 
OTHER 



FORE 


PART. 


B/ 


Gorge 




Gorge 


Shoulder 




Shoulder 


Blade 




Blade 


Side Waist 




Side Waist 


Breast 






Stomach 






Front Bottom 





FORE PART. 
Gorge 
Shoulder 
Front of Scye 
Scye Level 
Forearm Pitch 
Blade 
Side Waist 
Hip 

S. Seam Bottom 
Breast 
Stomach 
Front Bottom 



BACK. 



Directed bv 



Date 



Cut by 



Date 



The Un printed Matter hereon is the Property of 



Mr. Sinit/i, 164. Bank Road, Liverpool Cloth No. 167SiS Ordered Nov. 3 19 IS Try on None Finish Sat. 

S. B. Jacket. 1 Vent; 2 Pkts. out ; o Buttons B ; Sq. Fronts; long Roll; ..ffoZZow Waist ; Stitched off \ ; 
Raised Seams; Gauntlet CufF; Type of Back S. Stooping ; Type of Shoulder S. Sloping ; Falls on the Right by | ; Neck High 
Nat. Waist 17 ; Length SI ; \ Back 7\ ; To Elbow '20 ; To Wrist 3S ; J Chest 8\ ; Breast .37 ; Waist SG)-, 
S.B. No Coll. "VEST. Long Fronts; .^ Pkts out ; i Pkts. in ; Ch. hole 4 and 5 up ; To opening 13 ; Length 26 
XROUSERS Side and Hip Pkts.; Raised S. Seams Turn-up Bottoms; S. Seam 45 ; Leg Sl\ ; Waist S4.\ 
Seat S9 : Knee 19 ■ Bottoms If, 



Form B2 

(Copyright). 



nly by Lie 



■s of the " THOMSON CUTTING METHOD." Protected under the Patents Act. Patt. applied for U.S.A. 1913. 
ated, sold or used except by Licence from ROBERT THOMSON, 245 Stanley Road, Liverpool, England. 



DEVIATIONS REQUIRED FROH BLOCK 37 A Collar Stand n^ 

Sketch the Block outline faintly in BROWN. Produce the LEFT side in BLUE, the RIGHT in WHITE. 
\T\r g Where ' O" is written, make no deviation. Where " — " is written, disregard this point and copy the 

contour of the block curves from the last, and to the next point indicated. 



2^/} 



COAT. 



ALTER M.y.e 



FRO/A 
OTHER 



BACK. 


FORE PART. 




FORE PART. 




BACK. 


FORE PART. 


To Back Pitch 7k 


Roll to -'J 




S. Seam Bottom I E 




To Back Pitch 7 


Gorge I w. 


„ Nat. Waist '7 


Lapel Cut i 




Breast O. 




Gorge 


o. 


Shoulder kS..^W 


„ Bottom 3' 


Fish i 




Stomach f iv. 




Shoulder 


\s. 


Front of Scye \ w 


Nape i A^- 


Gorg-e I W; i S. 




Front Bottom i "' 




Blade h S 


, iE. 


Scye Level 4 S. 


Gorge iN..^^E. 


Lapel Top i^-, i "'■ 
Shoulder } "'■ 




SLEEVE. 








Forearm Pitch 0. 


Shoulder 0. 






Blade 0. 


Blade i s. 


Front of Scye \ ^v. 




To Elbow -'o 








Side Waist O. 


Side Waist i^- 


Scye Level h S- 




„ Wrist 33 




SLEEVE. 


Hip 0. 


Hip 0. 


Forearm Pitch O. 




Cuff Width i2^_ 




To Wrist 


0. 


S. Seam Bottom 0. 


S. Seam Bottom O. 


Blade O. 




Forearm i i'. 




Forearm 


0. 


Breast \ w. 


Back Waist — 


Side Waist i H^- 




Hindarm i 5. 




Hindarm 


o. 


Stomach \ w. 


Seat i '-^ 


Hip i ^. 




Shoulder 0. 




Shoulder 


0. 


Front Bottom \ W. 


B. Seam Bottom i '-f^- 






VJilST. 










FORE FART. 


BACK 








FORE PART 




BACK. 


To Break '3h 


To Nat. Waist 


' 


7 




Gorg-e i •S'. 




Gorge 0. 


,, Bottom ^7 


Nape h A'- 








Shoulder f 5-. 




Shoulder 0. 


Gorg-e O 


Gorg-e i A^-. - 


-E 






Blade 0. 




Blade O. 


Shoulder i S 


Shoulder 


0. 






Side Waist 0. 




Side Waist O. 


Blade \ s 


Blade f ^. 








Breast C 






Side Waist O. 


Side Waist h 


W 






Stomach 0. 






Breast i E. 


Back Waist 


O. 






Front Bottom O. 






Stomach f ^• 
















Front Bottom i f^- 
















Directed by R. 


T. Date 




3/11113. 


Cut 


by 


C.S. 




Date 3IUJI3. 



5 

Could anything be simpler or more effective ? 

To fix the '' geographical " idea of one's block patterns in the 
mind, it is well for the '' cutter " to have before him for a few days, 
such a sketch of them as is included in this book. The operator, unless 
he is vjery careless, cannot go wrong. 

After a week's use of the Method, I found I coujd fill a Form in 
three minutes. When filled, it is passed on to an operator who 
knows simply where to place the patterns on the cloth, what allowances 
to make for lapels and inlays, and who can ^ chop out.' The 
all-important deviations are clearly and unmistakeably conveyed to 
to him, the patterns do the rest. 

I have had the system in use in my business for some time. Not 
a single failure has resulted ! Yet, before they had the charts handed 
to them, the operators had attempted nothing more difficult than 
trimming. As I remarked earlier, better results accrue than did by 
the old method, even in the cases where I laboured through all 
the stages myself, for I am less fatigued, less distracted, am not 
tempted to ^* skiffle,' or to leave the ^' other side " to take its chance 
at the try-on. Not infrequently too, I ' cut ' with the customer's 
figure before me. We have all boasted of what we could do if that 
were possible ! 

It is possible now. 

If at the try-on, any alteration is necessary, it is recorded, and a 
chart bearing the complete directions for success is filed, — vastly a 
quicker, easier and better way of registering individual requirements 
than is provided by the cutting of special patterns, altering them 
(when you can!) and storing them to develop dust and curliness. 

Besides, 1 save a LOT in wages and alteration costs. 

Does not the system offer like substantial advantages to you ? 

Further, suppose that, tired of workshop and allied w^orries, you 
wished to avail yourself of the undoubted advantages that the bespoke 
factory can offer, you would hesitate because you fear to leave your 
cutting to another. A little reflection will reveal to you that by 
using my method, you can do your own cutting in the most real 
sense, while miles away from the cloth and trimmings, and too, with 



6 

a speed which compensates for the postal and delivery delays 
inseparable from the use of the factory system. 

I have, of course, taken adequate measures to protect my in- 
vention in both Europe and America, and I invite applications for 
license to use it. The very moderate terms on which that license 
may be obtained are appended hereto. Use of the system without 
that license, the making of block patterns as described in the fore- 
going, or the making of Forms or Charts for facilitating the use 
of the system, if done without that license, constitutes infringement. 



The Inventor of the '' THOMSON METHOD OF CUTTING " 



will grant to Messrs. 



of.. 



a tivo years' license for the use of the Method in the conduct of 
their business on either of the sets of terms here follozving, pro- 
vided acceptance of one of them is notified to him not later tha?i 

Ajter that date, he does not 

hold himself boufid to this offer. 



FIRST SCHEME. 



The licensee shall undertake to purchase from the Inventor (or 
his assigns), and to pay for in advance, all the Forms or Charts he 
shall use in connection with the practice of the said Method at the 
rates here following, until the expiry of his license. He shall under- 
take to use each of those Forms in connection with the cutting of one 
only, of the garments specified on it ; he shall undertake not to sell 
any of the Forms or Charts, and he shall agree to assist the Inventor 
to discover and proceed against infringers. 



PRICES FOR FORHS AND CHARTS. 

Form B 2 for use with any block pattern of jacket and vest, reefer and 
vest, Chesterfield, etc. 

Form B 3 for use with any block pattern of any type of body coat 
and vest. 

Form B 4 for use with any block pattern of Raglan. 

Form B 5 for use with any block pattern of Chester-Raglan. 

Chart C 2, headed like the ^ B ' series, but having representations of 
block patterns of jacket and vest printed in blue, so that 
the ^'geographical " directions can be written above the 
points, and the relative positions of the latter can be dotted 
in black and red for the two sides of the garment 
respectively. 

Chart C 3 like C 2 but for Reefer and Vest. 

Chart C 4 ,, ,, ,, Body Coat and Vest. 

Chart C 5 ,, ,, ,, Frock and Vest. 

Chart C 6 ,, ,, ,, Chesterfield. 

Chart C 7 ,, ,, ,, Raglan. 

Chart C 8 ,, ,, ,, Chester-Raglan. 

Any of the above series, 100 for £0 12 6 (i.^d. each). 

M n M 500 M 2 12 I (4 ,, ) 

M M M 1000 M 4 3 4 (i<^- n ) 

Orders for 1000 or more of one kind, will have the Licensees' name 
and address printed on the heading free. 

Binding Forms or Charts in books of 100 with counterfoils and tear- 
off perforations, 5/- extra ^ach book. 

Books of the headings alone, containing 5 on each page, and having 
those on each alternate page surrounded with perforations, so that a 
carbon copy of each order can be taken and detached for pasting 
on a loose Form or Chart. Quotations on application. Please 
state the number of orders to be recorded in a book. 



NOV 29 1913 



/ 



8 

SECOND SCHEME. 

The licensee shall agree to pay to the Inventor (or his assigns), 
a royalty of : — 

Id. per job cut by the process, guaranteeing 900 per year 
Ud. ,, „ „ „ 450 „ 

He shall agree to pay in advance, each quarter, for one quarter of 
the number contracted for, and to pay for the balance he shall cut, at 
the end of each year. He shall undertake to provide satisfactory 
evidence to the Inventor (or his assigns) that the number he states 
to have been cut by the Method has not been exceeded. He shall 
undertake not to use the Method except in connection with his own 
business. He shall undertake not to sell Forms or Charts desianed 
to facilitate it, and he shall agree to assist the Inventor (or his 
assigns) to discover and proceed against infringers. 



Block patterns ready marked for use with the THOMSON 
CUTTING METHOD can be had at the prices following. They 
are cut from strong pattern paper. Jacket and Vest, in three 
types respectively for : - 

D. Working-class trades. 

E. City trades. 

F. '^ Smart" trades, full skirts, suppressed waist, etc. 
2/6 each, 10/- the set of five. 

Chesterfield in the types D. & E same price. 

Raglan-Chester in one type, same price. 

Morning Coat and Vest in the types D. & E. 

3/6 each, 14/- set of five. 

Licensee's own patterns can be prepared for use with, the 
Method at half the above prices. 

Forms and Charts will be supplied to Licensee's own 
specifications (if desired) at the same rates as are set forth under 
Scheme I, plus the small charges made by the printer in respect of 
type-setting and block making. 



Circular A 2. 



LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 

■I.. 

014 082 915 8 



All Rights Reserved, 



-'Dfe 



THIS PAMPHLET AND ITS CONTENTS 
ARE PROTECTED UNDER BOTH THE 
COPYRIGHT AND PATENT ENACTMENTS 
OF GT. BRITAIN, Nos. 21408/13., 25871/13, 
AND THE U.S.A., 1913. 



